Ecuador Guayaquill & Quito

Posted on October 27th, 2007 in Travel by Sinead

We arrived in Guayaquill at the weekend so things were fairly quiet but had a walk around all the same. We didn´t stray too far from the center except to walk along the riverfront boardwalk. We did get to see election voting - couldn´t figure out the voting system though seemed pretty random to us - a street was blooked off and there were loads of tables with numbers written on paper taped to the wall behind….We wanted to go on a trip to the Galapagos islands (seemingly a must see place although a tad more expensive than anything we´ve done to date) so decided to try and get it out of the way and book something. After checking out a couple of travel agencies (there weren´t that many in town that dealt with the galapagos) we realised we had a limited selection and decided to try our luck in Quito. Probably didn´t give the place much time but the most notable experience was we met two Johova Witnesses who were there working on behalf of their church (really nice people but definately were not expecting to be run into them). After an uneventful bus trip (which was a nice change) we arrived in Quito in the early morning so headed straight to a hostel were we slept for a few hours before heading out to sort out our Galapagos trip. After some research we realised our only real option was a boat named the Marek, for an 8day trip, leaving in five days time. It took us two days in all to get all sorted for the Galapagos - after having to wait and sort out flight tickets, but as we were flying out of Quito we had plenty of time to check out some of the sights before leaving. We went for a walk around the old town - which had some really nice colonial buildings surrounding a huge square and some small streets you could wander around. Had to drag Garrett for a coffee in one of the little coffee shops (hey it was raining and i mean it was a downpour - arrived everyday at 3o´clock almost like clockwork). Went to the irish bar just around the corner from the hostel were Garrett got to buy a 3litre glass of beer - it was huge and yes he was in his element. The following day we decided to try out the towns bus system, actually managed not to get lost, and travel to the center of the world - the equator. Had great fun me in the northern hemisphere with Garrett in the south!! We had a beer just to say we had a beer on the equator. After a few pics and a wander around it was back on the bus (tried to time it so we would reach the hostel before the rain came) of course this time got slightly lost but found our way eventually. On our last day in Quito, before flying to the Galapagos, we visited the Basilica which is a massive cathedral in the old district. It was fairly big but what was really brilliant was you could walk to the top of the steeple, which we did but as it started to thunder and lightening appeared we didn´t stay too long - we headed up the clock tower instead (well it was higher up). The church had been destroyed by an earthquake and fire but was rebuilt by the locals some of the pictures of the reconstruction were amazing (very few safety laws here). Well thats it for now - its off to the Galapagos (seemingly the no.1 holiday destination although we are visiting in the off season) S&G

Huraz - Trujilo - Thumbes & Ecuador

Posted on October 8th, 2007 in Travel by Sinead

 okay so after a day recuperating - where i never left our hotel room cause i looked like a swollen tomato… we decided to head on to Ecuador. Rather than backtrack to Lima we took a bus to Trujillo. We arrived there the following day fairly rested, well our sleep was interrupted once or twice!!! First we had to change buses (second one definitely wasn´t as nice plus it was colder) and only an hour or so after changing buses we had a tyre blow out - smoke everywhere etc etc - beginning to become a bit of regular thing when we travel by bus!!!! Anyways arrived a little late to Turjillo which wasn´t exactly a bad thing as the only connecting bus to Thumbes (on the border between Peru and Ecuador) was at nine that night. As we had a day to kill we did a tour - there are loads of ruins around Trujillo from pre-inca times.So we visited Chan Chan, which is the largest mud city in the world and as the the area has a relatively dry climate being on the coast and all a lot of the ruins have survived. It was a really interesting tour and a good way to pass some hours. After a very healthy fried chicken and chips dinner we headed to the bus terminal where we had our finger prints taken along with a video of all the faces of the people on the bus - i unsuccessfully tried to hide due to my still red face…We guessed it was due to our traveling to a border town although while traveling through all Peru a record of our passport numbers has always been taken!! It was a fairly uneventful trip, no tyre blow outs (I know surprise surprise but the rest of the day was eventful enough…), to Thumbes a border town between Peru and Ecuador, which is notoriously known as the worst border crossing in ALL of south America (we off course had done no research and didn´t realise that so if anyone is reading this and traveling in south America avoid this border crossing by all means possible!!) Here´s what happened; First off we were met at the bus station by a taxi driver who offered us a connection to the border and having done a bit of traveling we asked how much it would cost (we didn´t have much money on us 20dollars in all so pretty money conscious) to which he replied connection (Repeated this three times same answer). I believed him - Garrett as ever was more sceptical, but didn´t mind if he decided to charge us something at the end so off we went the four of us (he brought a friend - protection he said). We traveled 24kms to the border so realised at this stage (too late) the taxi man would definitely be expecting money still figured we´d have enough to cover it!! Got stamped out of Peru no problems and got back in the taxi - between the Peru border and the Ecuadorian border there is a no mans land in which exists a pretty dodgy town so we were advised to take our taxi to the Ecuadorian border. So off we drove navigating narrow streets and markets - this is were the “protection friend” came in handy directing the car through narrow streets and removing obstacles, until we pulled into a parking area surrounded by galvanised walls and the river. It was here everything turned sour - a security guard arrived demanding 40dollars each per person to leave the taxi in the parking lot???? At this stage the taxi man told us (with a huge smile - he was being so helpful in his mind protecting us from the riff raff in town!!!!!) that all he wanted was 130dollars (thats each) but this included everything - our bus to Guayaquil, the security guard, the taxi fare and for our security (the taxi man and his friend!!!). Needless to say our 20dollars felt small but we were furious and demanded to be returned to Thumbes. Everyone got a little nervous then, the security guard brought his price down to 20dollars each and the taxi man said okay 80dollars each. Needless to say we were still furious especially as we had specifically asked how much the taxi would cost before getting in!!! A fantastic argument ensued helped along by our perfect Spanish of course but i think our faces said everything. Firstly we informed them we only had 20dollars - easily overcome they offered to accompany us to the bank mmmm. Anyway to cut the story short we gave up trying to get back to Thumbes - we had been naive didn´t research the border crossing and so had landed ourselves in the situation. So we cut our losses and paid 40dollars each (a far cry off 130 but still 40dollars to cross a border even Cambodia wasn´t this bad). Of course our haggling had meant we got the cheapest bus possible so we were left at the bus (have to admit got no trouble although once or twice had people come up when they didn´t see our “bodyguards”). We got on our bus hoped off at the border to get our passports stamped then proceeded to a check point were we all got off the bus and had our identification and bus thoroughly checked (they even checked the toilets) we passed through several checkpoints identification and bus checked at all. Eventually after about two hours we passed our final checkpoint. We stopped at almost every town and intersection to pick up more passengers. Five hours in (we were meant to be at our destination at this stage and were pretty hungry as hadn´t eaten all day) the bus is packed to the hilt I mean it you couldn´t have squeezed an orange in and our luck kicked in yep another tyre blow out. It took them over an hour to change the tyre, well the jack didn´t lift the bus high enough!! stones came in handy though!!!, so didn´t get to our destination till 4 (we left Thumbes at 8) . So needless to say once we got into town found a bank and somewhere to eat and sleep and then we just crashed out. So in Ecuador now and first impressions - the border incident, have a lot to make up for. S&G

Cusco - Lima - Huraz

Posted on October 6th, 2007 in Travel by Sinead
After recouperating in Cusco we decided to move on to Huraz but discovered we´d have to go via Lima (the Capital). We got an overnight bus to Lima that left at 5 but got nowhere fast - we were still in Cusco 3hrs later…. We were quick to discover that traffic was going nowhere all streets had been closed for a car rally!!! This along with the fact our bus didn´t move very quickly meant we didn´t arrive into Cusco till midday the next day . The bus also drove the long way to Cusco through the area recently affected by the earthquake which was interesting to see even if it was from a bus. Most places were in ruins and people were living in tents but from what we could see people were getting back to everyday life kids flying kites small restaurants selling breakfast etc.
Lima didn´t really appeal to us so we decided to head straight on to Huraz that night but we did get to visit the San Martin square. We also called into a pub famous for wax works of great soccer players. Garrett can now proudly say he had coke (coca - cola don`t panick) with Maradona. So off we went again on another overnight bus and again our luck was out just as we were drifting into a lovely sleep we were woken and told to move to a new (not as comfortable)  bus. Two hours later we were parked up on the side of a road after the tire blew out (don´t seem to be having much luck with buses lately). We eventually got to Huraz were we decided we were due a treat so we booked ourselves into a really nice room complete with a Jacuzzi (pretty cool).
The following day we looked around to organise some ice climbing in the nearby mountains we found a company we were happy enough with so arranged to leave the next day on a two day trip. We left around 9 the next morning on a tourist bus heading to the same glacier ( Mt. Pastouri ). We arrived around 12 with a stop at a site or two - cactus valley and naturally formed carbonated water (there were some really cool llamas here that you could have photos with, they were wearing hats and sunglasses and shawls!!!). We picked up an additional traveler who was only there to try climbing for the day so once the bus parked up we headed off in a quieter direction to everyone else where Christian could try out his ice climbing skills. Slightly boring for us as we had to sit around and watch him for 2hrs!!! At two it was time for Christian to catch the bus back and time for us to set up camp. We had two guides with us Walter and Hindi (that was his nickname) and between the four of us we had the two tents up in no time. One tent directly behind the other and both put up real close to the hill to reduce the wind attacking us during the night. Our camp was right beside a small lake (the glaciers are melting and the lake was formed from the meltwater) with the glacier in the background. Garrett headed off to try some ice climbing for an hour after we´d had lunch and they were just finishing up when it decided to snow - heavily. We all climbed into our tent (which was the bigger of the two) to cook dinner. When the two guides opened the outside door to leave all you could see was white it was brilliant until we tried to sleep - me being the eternally cold person i am woke up a couple of times in the night due to the cold or it might have been from the noise of some of the glacier falling - eerie when there is no other sound to be heard….
It was up early only to discover that the sky was overcast so delayed our departure time from camp till nine at which time we put on the really awkward snow shoes and crampones for a hike to the summit which is a lot tougher than one would think as the boots are heavy and you are at 5000ft. Eventually got to the top where we had a nice view (it was still fairly overcast) and also another hilltop - no snow here so my big boots hindered me and after a slight slip i decided (very wisely) to stay put while the three boys walked to the top. A half hour later they returned and we headed back to camp. 
A snowfight, snowman and some sliding later we arrived at the base of the glacier were it was time to do some more ice climbing again. Garrett of course got straight into it and got to the top of the rope, i on the other hand got to the first peg (rock climbing and ice climbing are out for me i think i just don´t have the arm power). After this it was a quick rush to pack up and get back in time for the return bus to Huraz. As the bus trip wore on our faces started to get redder and redder oh yes!!! it had been so cold and overcast we´d forotten about sunscreen can only guess what little sun there had been had reflected on the glacier.
We woke up the next day both with sore faces but as usual i was worse my lips had doubled in size and were blistering - Garrett thought it was hilarious (I secretly think hes trying to kill me.) 
S&G 

Cusco - Machu Picchu

Posted on October 3rd, 2007 in Travel by Sinead
Well headed to Loki in Cusco to meet up with Rob (from Bolivia) and Vinny (Chile - Bolivia) they showed us some of the best places in town to eat as well as filling us in on some of the crazy nights out we´d missed. Unfortunately they were leaving Cusco the following day so only had a few quiet drinks to easy us into the hectic nightlife in Cusco.
After some dinner and saying goodbye to Rob and Vinny we went for a few drinks with our Cork roommates (4guys & 1girl) and also a girl from Navan. A few drinks lead to a few more which in turn lead to 9 of us trying to squeeze into the tiniest taxi in the world (seriously sober i couldn´t figure out were we´d all fit!!! We only managed to get the door closed because the security guard at Loki (who was in fits of laughter at us) pushed Garrett in with one hand while closing the door with the other. We then rolled down the hill (thank god we didn´t have to go up any i think the car would´´ve passed out..) to the main square were we headed to a nightclub. Having been out of the going out scene for a while we only stayed till four before going home - a great night though.
After a few days enjoying Cusco we decided it was time to go see what we were there to see the all famous Machu Picchu (Inca ruins discovered in the mountains surrounded by jungle). As its such a famous sight the entrance tickets are a little expensive but the real killer is the train from Cusco to Agnes Calientes (the town at the bottom of the mountain). The backpacker train is still expensive unless you take the night train which is still 50dollars per person (wouldn´t have minded that as much but that money goes straight to chile as the owner of the train is a business man from Chile). So we decided to go the back way to Macchu Picchu by taking a bus for 8hrs to Santa Maria (got delayed as well due to a flat tire) where we waited to get a connecting bus to Santa Theresa which took 3hrs with 27passengers in a hi-ace van (this guy couldve thought Micky Clarke a thing or two).
We got dropped off at the Hydroplant outside the town at 6 in the morning and started our 3hr walk from there to Agnes Calientes along the railway track. Needless to say hadn´t gotten much sleep on the buses so by the time we got to town i was exhausted so after some grub and sorting out tickets for the following day we took it easy.
It was up at five to catch the first bus to the ruins (I talked Garrett out of walking up to the ruins and was i glad i stuck to my guns - 1000meters of a climb it would´ve taken me all day to get up there). The other advantage to the bus was we were one of the first through the gates so got to see Machu Picchu with only a few people there which was great - the guy playing traditional pipe music at the top of one of the temples definitely added to the eerie atmosphere as the clouds rolled by. It was an amazing site definitely worth the visit and we got a fantastic view from Waynu Pichu the mountain behind the ruins (there are also ruins on the top of this mountain) it took about 30mins or so to climb. From the top of Waynu Pichu we took an alternative return route to see a cave but this trek took 2hrs and i was exhausted after it - the Incas are definitely on my hit list along with the Chinese (I don´t know which one of them invented steps first so they´re both on it!!!)
After getting a quick bite to eat we headed back to have a better look at some of the temples as well as do some of the alternative treks - to see an Inca bridge and the sun gate. We also made some friends with the llamas they keep on site to keep the grass from becoming over grown. We didn´t leave till 5 and then we still had to walk down the mountain back to Agnes Calientes - talk about being tired.
The next day it was up early again and a quick 3hr walk (not my muscles were all seized from the day before) back to Santa Theresa. From the hydro station we got a lift into town and a minibus straight away to Santa Maria. In Santa Maria the bus due at 1 didn´t arrive till half 3 and to top things off 2hrs further on we got stopped for an hour - the road was closed for road works….
We eventually got back to Cusco extremely tired and hungry but it was another adventure to add to our tales.
S&G