Rurrenabaque - La Paz - Cusco
The Amazon Jungle
La Paz - The pampas
After the mine tour we decided to head straight to La Paz that evening (it´s lower in altitude but still high - highest capitol in the world and all that). Unfortunately for us the legendary Bolivian strikes/protests (seriously they have loads every year) had struck - it was over whether or not La Paz or Sucre should be the capitol!!! Anyway it meant most of the roads were blocked to La Paz and most bus companies weren´t running - however we managed to find a local bus that was going so decided to take our chances. The trip took over 15hrs with plenty of stops and back tracking - the bus had a dodgy gear box (1st gear was no longer available to the driver!!!) which meant we´d get half way up a steep hill when you suddenly realised you were starting to roll backwards hence the backtracking.
On reaching La Paz we found loci hostel and then checked out the La Paz markets. It is a lovely city but didn´t stay long had another Spanish lesson before deciding we´d better head on to Rurrenabaque up north. First we did the famous death road by bike - not as bad as it sounds most of the deaths were due to crazy drivers and stupid cyclists going too fast. The first two hours were on asphalt so really smooth which gave me a chance to relax and get used to the bike - which was really cool cause it had front and rear suspension (super expensive seemingly). Then it was onto the older part of the death road - no asphalt. We split into three groups depending on speed - i opted for the slowest one for a half hour or so which gave me a great chance to take in the views (reminded me of tiger leaping gorge in China and Luangphrabang in Laos). I then moved up a group - was feeling more confident on the bike - and i really enjoyed the rest of the trip wanted to do it all again when we got to the end all grubby and wet (a few river crossings) but had to move on so booked our bus from Yolista to Rurre for the next day.
We stayed at a really nice hotel with pool and sauna overlooking an amazing valley of mountains covered in trees. Then the next day headed to Yolista bus station (a yellow triangle in the middle of the road) to catch our bus. To get to Rurre we continued on the death road - seriously would not like to be scared of heights!!! At some stage our clearance distance to the edge was about a foot if that especially when trying to let another bus/lorry pass. Not to worry though we arrived safe and sound the next morning (another 16hr trip) and headed straight to the office we´d booked a pampas trip with. Started to panick a bit when the office still wasn´t open 3hrs later at nine (was supposed to open at 7!!) but all went well and we eventually got under way an hour later. There was eight of us - me Garrett and Rob two portugese guys and three english girls as well as our guide Oscar and a cook. Five hours later (incredibly bumpy jeep drive later) we arrived at our boat/canoe which we hopped into with all our gear and then headed upstream into the pampas. The pampas is an area of wetland on the edge of the amazon jungle in Bolivia and within minutes we were seeing lots of different coloured kingfishers, giant cranes of all different discriptions, aligators and caymans, and capabaris (largest rodent in the world - actually quite cute) - there were loads more weird looking things just can´t remember their names (oh there were vultures). We also got to see some cute monkeys (yellow black and white) which are known as the cheeky monkeys - they came onto the boat trying to steal some fruit - see how they got their name. Eventually got to camp three hours later were we had some chow and a few beers before calling it a day.
The following day we went anaconda hunting two hours in muck up to the knees (was back wearing wellies) decided to call it a day (had no luck finding one) when we walked right past one. Oscar caught it so we could take a few pics (Garrett was delighted cause he got to hold it) before we let it go and headed back to camp. Then we headed piranha fishing as you do caught one or two little ones but Oscar caught some big ones which we had for dinner - not the nicest fish i´ve tried but wasn´t bad. We finished off the day by watching the sunset from a bar down river. Our final day we got up really early to listen to the pampas wake up but unfortunately the sun wasn´t out so even though we found some howler monkeys they wouldn´t wake up for us - it was too cold. Although it was really funny as we pulled up along the bank to go wake them up but when we got back in Garrett got to push off only to sink up to his ankles in mud - almost lost his shoes (was funnier at the time him trying to haul himself onto the boat as we drifted away while at the same time trying to find his shoes).
After breakfast we headed swimming with the pink dolphins - who turn pink seemingly when excited!! Only Garrett jumped in but he had way more fun meeting Pete - the friendly aligator on the bank edge who Oscar helped him touch on the nose…… Don´t worry all limbs are still intact.
Well that ended our trip - well we still had a three hour boat trip back followed by the 5hr jeep trip but had a really good time at the pampas - not saying i didn´t enjoy the shower back in Rurre.
S&G